Along the watch-tower

Today was a fairly leisurely day which nonetheless had many highlights. We wandered over the hills and went to see the fishing huts, where we met two very pleasant blokes who explained that there wasn't any fish for sale because the boat had broken down. A brief look at Port Maubert brought into view the curious edifice on the hill by St Romain. C encouraged me to try the unmade road to get closer to it, and up we went, Big Bloo happily negotiating the steep gritty and grassy swoops right to the top. The view is amazing, from the cliffs of Meschers to the north right down to Bordeaux; inland we could clearly see both the champagne cocktail and the chess-queen water towers; I knew my house was somewhere there between them, but it wasn't quite visible. Nearby was a hen harrier, circling in broad sweeps.

The structure is conical, with a protective layer of new white cement over old stones. It looks like a small brough, three or four storeys. There isn't any kind of sign or label to say what it is and why it's there. And we didn't have a working camera! No matter, the interwebs provided the information and photos.

Lunch at the new Creperie at La Daugaterie. Outstanding food. I had a small salad which included the best white asparagus I've ever tasted, delicately and perfectly seasoned (only a small one, to leave room for ice-cream); C had a big Bretonne galette containing Roquefort and walnuts. It wasn't a large or expensive meal, so we were rather surprised when, having already handed us the bill, the owner offered glasses of some strong liqueur. C accepted: she thought it was very tasty and probably made from honey, and we have no idea what it was.

This evening's meal was mussels and chips from 1000 Frais et Un Fred. They cook the food after the shop closes, and serve it from the back door, ladling it into pans and dishes brought by the punters. I don't eat shellfish, so they sent their son home to get a steak and cooked that for me. Delicious. While we waited, C was given a small cup of Pineau and I had lemonade. Only after we got home did we realise we weren't charged for the drinks! Seb and Fred's impromptu cabaret was free, too.